Despite the passing years, The Thirsty Camel has retained its brand value, as they say in advertising. The name still resonates.

After sitting dormant and closed for five years, its equipment and furnishings intact behind locked doors, the restaurant has returned to life like a camel rising from the ashes. The difference is that the restaurant at 120 W. Washington Blvd. now is part of an entertainment complex known as Midtowne Place, owned and run by two caterers/classically trained chefs/graduates of Ivy Tech’s School of Culinary Arts.

“We want people to understand that there is a great historical building downtown where they can come and have a great time, whether it’s in the restaurant or in the grand ballroom upstairs,” said Hank LaBrosse who, with partner and head chef Deb Storch, has poured many months of “sweat equity” into revitalizing the building. The building’s owner, dentist Clifford Salk, closed the restaurant in 1997, but not until after it provided many years of good honest service as a prime downtown watering hole and eating place.

Those whose memories remain intact enough to recall the Camel’s past glories will be pleasantly surprised it has survived the years with virtually no change in décor or ambiance. It is still decorated in hues of mauve and pink and is a cool and inviting respite from the noise and traffic outside. Frank Sinatra sings in the background and the feeling is more late-night Las Vegas bar than afternoon in Fort Wayne. Doreen Brown of Fort Wayne was brought in as an expert in feng shui for some alterations. It looked fine, but I kept looking for feng shui on the menu.

The grand ballroom is used for Mystery Dinner Theaters with Bower North Productions, and is available for any private or corporate function. LaBrosse said it took months of cleaning and repainting to bring the ballroom to its current state, which makes it one of the most impressive and elegant large rooms in the city.

Parking always comes up when talking about this location, but the partners said it is a non-issue: There are 600 parking spaces within a short distance, including parking garages and lots; street parking is free after 5 p.m.

The partners may have visions of grandeur for the resurgence of the Midtowne Place reception hall upstairs, but they are taking it slow and easy in the restaurant. Although they plan to introduce high-end nightly specials soon, the menu now is small and simple. There are several examples of what the chefs want to become their signature, slow-cooked smoked meats, including lots of duck. Minus the specials, which will include seafood, the dinner menu is the same as the lunch menu, except for larger portions at the grand increase of a buck in price.

The chefs buy everything they can locally, including the duck, beef and pork, and aim to use only fresh ingredients even as they expand the menu.

The Dining Out staff suffered a brief disappointment on a recent visit, but an interesting one. With taste buds prepared for the BBQ Duck, slow-roasted Maple Leaf Farms duckling marinated in barbecue sauce, we were informed by our server that it wasn’t available because “it hasn’t been perfected yet.” We were pleasantly stunned. A chef declining to sell a meal because she wasn’t satisfied with it? We’ll be back, and they better be ready.

We managed to recover our equilibrium with two appetizers: Almond Crusted Duck Tenders, served with teriyaki plum dipping sauce ($4.50) and Omar’s Choice, black bean and cheese duckling quesadillas served with salsa and sour cream ($4.95). The duck tenders provided a glimpse of what the perfection of the duck dinner may bring and the four quesadillas were very tasty and perfect for finger-eating.

Our patience was rewarded with dinner which, it should be recalled, consisted of sandwiches. But really good sandwiches. We had the North Carolina Pulled Pork, smoked in a vinegar-based North Carolina clear sauce and topped, interestingly, with cole slaw ($5.45) and the Texas BBQ, smoked brisket served in its own juice on a bun with a sweet onion slice and an entire jalapeno pepper ($4.95). The sandwiches can get sloppy, but that is not a detriment to their enjoyment.

The side of choice was the Midtowne’s Signature Fries, tiny julienned potatoes deep fried and fortified with a touch of cayenne pepper, among other things.

Cooling desserts were needed, and quickly. We chose the New York cheesecake and a slice of Strawberry Cream Pie, the latter served with a strawberry on top and a layer of chocolate sauce underneath.

The Thirsty Camel will only get better as the chefs increase the menu and learn what their clientele want. For now, it’s a big-city addition to downtown and well worth a short walk from parking your car.

Hey, it works off the calories.

Also good:

Rib Tips — one-pound basket of rib tips slow-smoked and served with the signature BBQ sauce: $4.95 ($5.95 dinner).

Cajun Slaw — coleslaw with a “kick”: $1.75.

Smoked Chicken Salad — made with slow-smoked chicken and served on a multi-grain Kaiser roll: $3.95 ($4.95).