Candyfreak: A Journey Through the Chocolate Underbelly of America

Steve Almond’s Candyfreak is a dangerous book. Not having been much of a candy aficionado beyond age 10, I assumed that I was fairly safe from the allure of a book all about, from beginning to end, candy. How tempting could it be? Over 250 pages about candy bars and taffy and nougat and marshmallow? It’s enough to turn one’s stomach, right? Even the blurbs of praise on the cover (two sentences of complete inanity from Amy Sedaris and this from John Thorne: “Steve Almond is the Dave Eggers of food writing”) were enough to make me queasy.
But, really, I knew it wouldn’t be as easy as all that, because I already knew Almond’s writing. His collection of short stories, My Life in Heavy Metal, is one of the best bunches of little fictional tidbits I’ve ever read, and I knew that Almond has the power to pull a reader into situations he doesn’t exactly want to be pulled into and, against all odds, make that reluctant reader enjoy the pulling.
Thus went my journey into Almond’s world of candy. By the time I finished it, I was, like Almond, haunting the candy racks at the local grocery and drug stores, looking for new, untested treats and seeking out old, long-forgotten friends.
Almond’s book starts out innocuously enough as a sweet-tempered ode to candy. A self-confessed candyfreak, Almond explains that he is more than just a run-of-the-mill consumer of chocolate. The first chapter begins with the explicatory heading, “Some Things You Should Know About the Author,” and the subsequent list includes “1. The author has eaten a piece of candy every single day of his entire life” and “3. The author has between three and seven pounds of candy in his house at all times.” No doubt about it, Almond thinks about candy more than most of us do (at least once an hour, he claims), and he is therefore more than qualified to write an entire book about it.
Almond, though, isn’t content to muse and reminisce about his past and present encounters with sweets, although he does so extensively and hilariously. No, Almond is deeper than that, and he quickly finds himself delving into the intricacies of candy marketing and the dog-eat-candy bar world of the confection industry. He grows increasingly disturbed as he discovers the way that the Big Three candymakers - NestlÈ, Hershey’s, Mars - dominate American candy shelves, and his book becomes a quest for the little guy, the small regional candymakers that once, not too long ago, filled our sugar-fueled fantasies with various and sundry niche candies. He seeks out the survivors, visiting on his journey the makers of Iowa’s Twin Bing, Kansas’ Valomilk, Boise’s Idaho Spud, and California’s Big Hunk. Along the way, he also stumbles upon Nashville’s Goo Goo Cluster, Philadelphia’s Peanut Chew and a few others. It’s a wonderful, laugh-out-loud, sugar-high stomachache of a ride.
But in the middle of it, Almond does something that savvy readers will have seen coming but that might take joyriders by surprise: he gets serious. In the middle of an early mid-life crisis, he begins to think that his current life-state - romantically unattached, alone, and, basically, sad - might be attributable to his upbringing. He does a little finger pointing at a difficult father and cruel older brothers, but he shoulders a lot of the blame himself. The significant part of his introspection as it is relevant to the Candyfreak project, though, is that he sees a pattern in his escapism: when he was a kid he used the joys of candy to escape from the trials of his life, and, as an adult, he uses the easy career move of writing about candy to, once again, escape from the trials of his life. What’s more (and what’s more frightening), Almond starts tosee a parallel between himself, a guy struggling against the current of his life, and the small candymakers who are struggling against the current of big business. It’s a dark discovery, but it is a sweet contrast to the light, fluffy candy journalism.
That’s not to say that every page of Candyfreak isn’t filled with wonderfully sharp humor. It is. It’s also a fantastic, loving tribute to the little known but surprisingly important-seeming history of American candy. But it’s more. Like a really good candy bar, it’s sweet and satisfying on the outside, and it’s filled with shocking, unexpected and even better stuff on the inside. Almond’s enthusiasm for this material is so infectious that I, who hadn’t eaten a full-size candy bar in years (the bite-size stuff left over from Halloween doesn’t count), went out after I finished the last page and bought a Chunky bar (which I hadn’t had since I was in elementary school), and I was overjoyed when I found out that the local Osco carried not only the Annabelle Candy Company’s Rocky Road and Abba-Zaba, but their Big Hunk, too. I could hardly wait until I got home to eat them. I have to say, I was disappointed. Really, they were just chewy sugar, marshmallow and low-quality chocolate. But the thrill I got when I saw them on the shelf was something I hadn’t felt since I was a pre-teen, and I owe my rediscovery of it to Almond.
Copyright 2005 Ad Media Inc.